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Archive for the ‘DIY Delights’ Category

Pegboard Potrack

Supplies

  • Pegboard
  • 8 oz. Sample size jar of paint (optional) for pegboard, diluted with equal part water
  • Set of pegboard hooks
  • 4 wood pieces for frame
  • Drill
  • 2″ screws + drywall anchors if you are not putting into studs

1. Measure your wall space and buy a 3/16″ or 1/4″ pegboard that will fit the wall. You can also have the pegboard cut to size. We used a standard 24″ x 48″, 3/16″ white pegboard, which fit perfectly on our wall.

2. You can also paint the pegboard. Rohit saw no reason to do this, as it did contribute in any way to the functionality of the pegboard. But I thought it looked much nicer painted, and also provided a bright pop of color for the kitchen. I already had a sample size jar of Behr’s Spicy Cayenne, which was more than enough for this. When I poured the paint into my paint tray, I diluted it with an equal amount of water. You can just eyeball this. The paint needs to be really thin so that it does not drop into and clog the pegboard holes.

Just lay the pegboard down on top of a large trash bag, somewhere you can leave it for a couple of days. It took about 6 to 8 coats of paint for the color to get as bright as I wanted. Since the paint needed to dry an hour between each coat, I did this over two days. It took just 5-10 minutes to paint each coat and then I would go do other things while it dried, come back in and hour and paint again, etc. until done.

3. You will also need 4 pieces of wood to form a frame on which to hang the pegboard. Along with extra support for the weight of the pots and pans, this will provide sufficient space between the board and the wall to insert the pegboard hooks. You will only need about 1/2″ to 3/4″ clearance between the wall and the pegboard, so that’s about how thick the wood for your frame needs to be.

We bought one 12 ft. (long) x 1.5 in. (wide) x 11/16 in. (thick) wood board¬†like this, and had it cut it into four smaller pieces. Most stores will be able to do this for you, but you’ll need to do a little bit of high school algebra here.

For our pegboard, we cut the 12 ft board into two 48″ long pieces (for the top and bottom) and two 21″ pieces (for the sides). Note that the side pieces are 21″ and NOT 24″. That’s because our wood board was 1.5″ thick, so when laid flat, the top and bottom pieces already provided 1.5″ + 1.5″ = 3″ length for the sides. So subtract that out and 24″ – 3″ = 21″ for the sides.

When the frame was assembled, and the pieces placed together, then the whole thing measured 24″ x 48″, the same size as the pegboard itself.

You could also paint the outer edges of the frame itself, either the same color as the pegboard, or a contrast color. I didn’t have the time to do this, but I tell myself that I might go back and do it one of these days.

4. If you are a little more obsessed with aesthetics, like I am, lay the pegboard over the frame at this point, on the floor. Take a pencil and through the holes pegboard, mark the place where each of the corner holes and the middle holes of the pegboard would be, on the wood frame. There should be 8 holes totals: 1 in each corner, and one directly in the middle of each of the four sides.

5. Now you can drill the frame into the wall. It is best to locate studs onto which you can drill at least some part of the frame. We have not yet been able to find a truly accurate stud finder, so it was a frustrating time using the cheap ¬†stud finder we picked up at the hardware store and then manually testing the spot with a nail. In new houses, the studs should be spaced about 18″ apart horizontally, and run the full vertical length of the wall. In an old house like ours, they can apparently be anywhere!

If you can’t find studs, or they are not where you need them, you can use drywall anchors instead. Now just drill in the frame, as securely as you want. As you can see, we went a little overboard. Also, make sure that the screw is completely flush or even a little embedded into the wood. You don’t want it sticking out even a little.

If you marked the pegboard holes according to Step 4, AVOID those areas when drilling the frame into the wall. Place the screw for the frame just far enough away from the marked pegboard hole so that there’s room for another screw next to it.

6. Next, drill the pegboard onto the frame. Place a screw through each of the four corner holes and the four middle holes of each side. I thought this placement gave it a very clean look, and made the screws more unobtrusive. Because of the width of the frame underneath, you will lose an equivalent space around the edges, where the pegboard hooks cannot be inserted.

7. Finally, hang up the pegboard hooks. You can pick up a pack at any hardware store and then buy extras as needed. You can move the hooks around until you achieve the optimal placement for all your pots and pans, and their lids.

P.S. Julia Child apparently outlined all her pots and pans with black marker, so that she knew exactly where to put them back.

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